77. Volcanoes and Atolls

Most of the islands in the Pacific Ocean have been created by a volcanic eruption that caused the seamount to rise and form an island. Often a very high and cone shaped structure in the middle of an ocean that is several thousand metres deep. These islands tend to be very lush with palm trees at sea level and pine trees near the top. Over time, in a tropical environment, coral starts to form a reef around the shoreline and ultimately the cone shaped structure in the middle starts to subside back into the ocean. As the island becomes smaller and the reef keeps growing, the reef creates a barrier from the surrounding ocean. Almost like a natural moat around the forever subsiding island. Until the island is totally submerged and all that is left is the reef. Or what is called an atoll.

These stages are all represented in French Polynesia. The Marquesas islands are relatively young and do not have much in the form of reefs while Tuamotus is an area with the largest group of coral atolls in the world. The Society Islands, where I haven’t been yet, is in the middle of the atoll forming process. With both islands and reefs providing protection from the elements. Which I guess is why places like Tahiti and Bora Bora are more developed.

As I’m writing this, I’m trying to think of words that describe Marquesas to people that haven’t been there. Which pretty much means most people. Words that pop up include beautiful, lush, high, friendly, culturally rich, undeveloped, paradise, remote, in the middle of nowhere and off the grid. I realise that the last few adjectives or descriptions essentially mean the same thing. But that’s probably the most lasting impression. Particularly if you’ve sailed there by yourself. It’s so far from anything. Things like fuel, eggs and vegetables are only available just after the supply ship has turned up every two weeks or so. And it’s first come, first served. After the locals and anyone speaking French have had their share. Diesel is often rationed. We only got 200 litres of diesel per boat in Nuku Hiva. But this is exactly what I wanted and expected and I loved the month I spent in the Marquesas.

If the Marquesas more than lived up to expectations, I’m not sure what to say about the Tuamotus. In fact, I don’t think anything or anyone can prepare you for a visit to an atoll. I thought I was prepared but it totally blew my mind. It feels like a salt water lake in the middle of the ocean. That much I expected. But I totally underestimated the size of an atoll and the beautiful conditions that it presents. The other day I motored seven hours between the north and the south pass of Fakarava. Into a 20 knot breeze, through flat water at a constant depth of 20-30 metres. As long as I looked out for the coral heads that were scattered like mines in the atoll. They are easily spotted when the sun is high in the sky and you have the track of a cruiser that went before you to follow. Its not really until you remember that it’s a large island that has disappeared that you are sailing over, and not just a mid ocean lake, that you appreciate the scale of things.

The atolls that are accessible for a sailing boat have one or two entrances that often offer very sporty conditions. The timing of transiting the pass can be crucial, yet hard to calculate. It’s dependent on tides, wind and water levels in the atoll. My experience is that you can generally expect a five knot current, with you or against you, and that you really don’t want to attempt entry or exit with wind against current. The current in these openings also provide nutrition for a whole underwater food chain. And at the top of that chain – sharks! Lots of sharks. I’ve had two dives in each of the two passes in Fakarava and got to watch these spectacular predators from only a few metres.

A visit to the atolls in the Tuamotus is probably one of the absolute highlights of any circumnavigation. I knew that before I came here so my expectations were high. But even so, it’s impossible not to get blown away by this place. It offers anything that a sailor could wish for. Provided that you bring supplies and can make your own water and electricity. Eventually I will have to leave this paradise and sail to Tahiti. But not before I finish the free-diving course I’m taking. I only wish that I could stay for the kite surfing lessons offered by the same cruisers but my laundry is not going to wash itself and I’m running out of pretty much everything. I’m really going to miss the early morning quizzes with Cerulean and Traveller on VHF and the potluck barbecues on the beach, but I’m eager to get to Tahiti where I can stock up after three months off grid. And to see an atoll in the making.