82. Leaving the Tropics

The sailing season in the tropical parts of the South Pacific is coming to an end and most cruisers will be looking to move on. In order to escape potential cyclones. The cyclone season in this part of the world officially starts in November but this year has already been categorised as an El Nino year with significantly higher surface water temperatures. Something that brings a higher likelihood of cyclones forming and potentially also an early start. A lot of South Pacific cruisers are therefore getting ready to sail south, to New Zealand or Australia. But before leaving, there are many of us enjoying a few final weeks of tropical heat in either Tonga or Fiji, as we prepare for what can be quite a challenging sail south.

Most boats here are in need of repair work. I certainly have a long list of things that I want to fix or improve on Saoirse. After all, she has sailed well over ten thousand nautical miles since she had her last overhaul in Grenada a year ago. It would take decades for most boats to sail that far, if they ever get there. Saoirse’s needs are primarily related to her electric or electronic systems. Largely due to the wave that made me go ‘missing’ between Panama and Marquesas. But that’s nothing compared with some of my neighbours. Two boats here have lost their masts completely and another two have lost their forestays. And Cavallo, a 44 m long carbonfibre superyacht that my friend Latch is working on, ran aground at ten knots of speed in Fiji. With only four out of twelve keel bolts left, they are planning to strap their giant lead keel to the hull and limp down to Brisbane where they can get hauled out.

My seven weeks in Tonga have probably been some of the most social ones that I have ever experienced. Not only have we been two onboard Saoirse, I have also met up with pretty much every South Pacific sailor that I know. And probably most of the ones that I didn’t know. We have had numerous restaurant visits, potluck barbecues, sail races and whale swims together. Or as Helen on Cerulean would put it, it’s been graduation time for the South Pacific class of 2023.

I’m sad to have to leave Tonga and I can’t say that I’m looking forward to sail to colder climates. But, as always, I find it exciting to move on to a new country. And this time it will be very different as New Zealand will be the first ‘first world’ country that I’ve been in since Spain over two years ago. I’ll be able to source equipment and services that have not been readily available to Saoirse for a long time. And I’ll be living an almost ‘normal’ life with a marina address and a car. In a country that I understand is one of the most scenic in the world. Can’t wait!